The History of St. Mary’s—Maryland’s First Capital

I previously wrote about the various Maryland Day celebrations coming up this weekend. But to offer a better sense of what Maryland Day is really about, I feel it’s worth delving more into the state’s foundational history. While the story primarily begins in St. Mary’s County and, more specifically, right in the heart of the first state capital—Historic St. Mary’s City (also famous for being the site of the fourth permanent settlement during British colonial times), there’s still so much more to learn about. That’s why, for this Flashback Friday Feature, I’m offering a brief survey on the history and development of St. Mary’s, from concept to established growth as a community. 

George Calvert’s Vision

The driving idea behind what would initially become the Colony of Maryland was conceived in the mind of George Calvert—the first Lord Baltimore in England. His vision was to create a place where all religions would be permitted to practice freely in the New World. This was during the 1600s, a time when the continued religious persecution against Roman Catholics living in England was at an all-time high. The Calvert family themselves were of the Catholic faith, so creating such a place of harmony and religious tolerance would be the ultimate dream come true.

A historic painting portrait of George Calvert.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons

George Calvert petitioned King Charles I for a land grant to establish such a colony and received it in 1631. Sadly, though, he did not live long enough to see his dream come to fruition. In his stead, his son Cecilius “Cecil” Calvert, second Lord Baltimore, continued his father’s planned vision. Because there was a large fanbase of Virginia Colony supporters in England opposing the new charter though, Cecil himself remained in England to better deal with any immediate political turmoil on the home front. Therefore, he sent two ships christened The Ark and The Dove, carrying 140 passengers (a number that eventually grew to 300 before the journey was complete). His brother Leonard Calvert, who would eventually become the first governor of Maryland was among them.

A replica boat of the Dove.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons

The Landing and Establishment of St. Mary’s

The two ships eventually arrived at their intended destination in March of 1634, disembarking at what would later be named St. Clement’s Island. Leonard Calvert bought an additional 30 miles of land below the Wicomico River from the Yaocomaco Indians, who proved beneficial in helping the new settlers get established in the area. The chosen location for St. Mary’s City was situated on a quaint bluff overlooking the St. Mary’s River, close to the mouth of the Potomac River where it emptied into the Chesapeake Bay.

A painting depicting the landing at St. Mary's.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons

The name of “St. Mary’s” for the settlement was chosen in honor of Mary, Mother of God—a befitting decision given the religious reasoning behind its very founding. The name of “Maryland,” for the new colony, however, was the result of the derivative “Marianus” suggested by King Charles himself in honor of his wife, Queen Henrietta Maria. As mentioned previously, Leonard Calvert became the first governor of “Terra Mariae” (Mary’s Land) and St. Mary’s City became the site of the capital up until 1695.

The St. Mary's County Flag.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons

Life and Livelihood

The first settlers living in the vicinity of St. Mary’s consisted primarily of those who were English-born and some Irish. The population contained a balanced mix of both Catholics and Protestants. Some of the earliest settlers were also indentured servants. Over time, the unfortunate emergence of chattel slavery in the region eminently resulted in a growth of slaves and free blacks in the area as well.

Many settlers in colonial St. Mary’s adopted the practice of tobacco farming, which grew to become their livelihood. It’s also one of the reasons why large plantation homes, like Sotterley, came into being. Fishing and living off the water as a “waterman” proved to be another burgeoning “career” that many settlers to the area eventually took to.

An illustration showing colonial tobacco farming.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons

Conflict and War

In its early years, St. Mary’s was the site of many up-and-down struggles. From settler setbacks involving illness to learning how to adapt to a new way of living, life here wasn’t without its fair share of challenges. Furthermore, despite its foundational objective to be a place of religious tolerance that was free of persecution, old tensions and hostilities from across the pond did eventually make their way over to Maryland as well. This was during the era known as the “Plundering Time” throughout the 1600s, in which Catholics were consistently harassed, and mistreated, and their homes plundered frequently. Fortunately, the return of a more peaceful coexistence came about with the passing of the Maryland Toleration Act on April 21, 1649, by the assembly of the Maryland colony in St. Mary’s City in St. Mary’s County, Maryland. 

A paragraph from the written Maryland Religious Tolerance Act.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons

In the century that followed, the surrounding area was touched by the realities of the Revolutionary War. In July of 1776, a British fleet containing 72 ships suddenly appeared off the shores of Point Lookout Peninsula. Led by John Murray, who was both the Earl of Dunmore and former Royal Governor of Virginia, the fleet targeted a two-mile piece of marshland along the St. Mary’s River. Given their shortage of rations and less-than-optimal health, they weren’t much of a match for the St. Mary’s militia, which was successful in driving them away.

As in the Revolutionary War, the British invaded and continuously raided the area during the War of 1812. But St. Mary’s once again prevailed against the opposition.

An illustration of a St. Mary's Militia man.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons

Point Lookout’s Storied Past

As a peninsula, Point Lookout is distinguishable as that prominent stretch of land sticking out between the Potomac and Chesapeake Bay. In 1857, prior to the outbreak of the American Civil War, 400 acres of land at the tip of Point Lookout were purchased by William Cost Johnson to establish a resort on location—an ideal spot indeed. But in just a few short years the “resort” and all its buildings were converted by the United States Government into a military hospital complex—the Hammond Hospital, which opened in August of 1862.

In the summer of 1863, following the fateful Battle of Gettysburg in Pennsylvania, the Union Army used Point Lookout’s location to be home to what would later be known as the largest prisoner-of-war facility in the north—Camp Hoffman. Conditions at Camp Hoffman were notoriously deplorable and before the war was over, more than 50,000 Confederate prisoners had been held here. Of that number, it is estimated that around 4,000 died while incarcerated.

A postcard print of Point Lookout during the Civil War era.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons

Air, Space, and Land

Let the records show that there have been many positive points throughout St. Mary’s history as well. One crowning callout that came in the 1940s was the establishment of the Patuxent River Naval Air Station. It was here during the World War II era that the U.S. Navy constructed a flight-testing center where they evaluated many major advances in aircraft innovation, such as the Tomcat, Harrier, and Osprey. The very first American astronauts were trained here too. Even today the Patuxent River Naval Air Station stands out in prominence as it provides more employment opportunities than anywhere else.

Two images. One is an aerial shot of the naval base. The other is a vintage aircraft from the 1940s.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons

St. Marty’s also boasts of being home to the Historical Archaeology Field School. Renowned internationally as being one of the best archaeological research areas and training sites in the world, in just the last three decades St. Mary’s City has played host to more than 200 archeological digs. 

Archeological digging tools.
Credit: Unsplash

St. Mary’s City, and by extension, St. Mary’s County, has played an integral part in Maryland State history. Its lasting legacy continues to endure, with the promise of a prosperous future to come.